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Located in North West Fort Worth Texas. Where are you located?

Thank you for your comment. I usually don't add pressure till I need it. So I usually only add a crop after they still are not getting the lead. This horse gets the left, but not the right. It is an ongoing process, some days are easier than others. Consistency is hard at times

More like a TRex. Lol!

Thank you for your comment. There is a lot more to lunging, than most people think. And that includes having the horse beat to stop on the lunch line and not turn until you ask them to. Here's a video on that. ruclips.net/video/smeYvhFm7vM/видео.htmlsi=7PLFtLoMFpuOQmLL Also check out my other lunging videos for even more ideas. ruclips.net/p/PL1JF_PZLhWBi5sy0-4oDMureKVzywlKL3&si=-_f1DLaiIguvnCx8

@@lonestarwoman thank you for the help!

Thank you so much.

Pugs are such characters!!! Lol

The outside leg gives the cue to the Canter, it is a strong squeeze of the inside of your outside calf. Not necessarily a kick with a heal.

Thanks👍🏻

Great job!!! Way to go

And on the first one she was like "wheee".

Thank you for your comment. The More desensitization the better with a young horse. Here's another flag training video to help ruclips.net/video/UEyFhhC4SHo/видео.htmlsi=uQBXD6DiHxWOkuJB

@@lonestarwoman thank you. i will definetly be using these videos to train her!!!

Thank you so much for your comment. Older horses really are gems and are worth their weight in gold. However an older horse will build muscle a lot slower, it's the same as asking a person in their 50s and 60s to get in shape again. You have to just go slow stretch a lot and they will gain muscle. Here's bones's playlist for some other ideas, ruclips.net/p/PL1JF_PZLhWBj3PYPg-0laY6tp24N3wra3&si=LyBsGl7ezcWrzvjo

Good question. Sometimes a deep oiling can even out a stain better, but most of the time it is permanent. Here's an example of stained watermarks and how those can be delt with. ruclips.net/video/mWRC3GO7zFE/видео.htmlsi=_7T1vfozUW6x2IFw

@@lonestarwoman thankyou, most appreciated. I think I’ll re wet and re oil and see how we go.

Let me clarify a little bit. You will take a measuring tape in inches from the coronary band, which is the white line right as the hair starts to form above the hoof to the knee where you see a dimple in the knee. This Colt ended up being 17 one hands high. So the amount of inches correlates to the amount of hands the horses going to be. The reason why this works is that the bone from the hoof all the way to the knee never has any muscle on it and is the same length throughout the horse's life and will determine the height of the horse everything else grows that bone does not. That's why colts look like they have such long legs in the very beginning.

Totally depends on the market in your area and the condition of the saddle. Courts went out of business, so not as many people know them So between $400 and $1000 used

Here are a few pictures

Thank you for your comment. Please check out my other mounting training videos. ruclips.net/p/PL1JF_PZLhWBjGyUf1WCMrdNMTx3nzEMbW&si=hFA1PPPHZJRadAGN

Thank you for your comment. I believe it is a side pull from two horse tack.com Check out my series on types of bitless to learn more. ruclips.net/p/PL1JF_PZLhWBgljXBlGV2Gu6FMVviZvRnO&si=EyoKDAjP7Tmi9Aj5

Thank you for your comment. Here's a playlist of more neck Reining videos. ruclips.net/p/PL1JF_PZLhWBhqlIBHlt6YfE4JzpHgwPaE&si=77kYuyTDbr31QznL

christa this lady is the best teacher i learned a lot from her

Thank you for your comment. Proper western riding is very similar to dressage. And if you have a good seat in English saddle you'll find Western is much easier actually. Let us know how it goes. Here's a playlist of adult riding lessons to give you a better idea what's going on. ruclips.net/p/PL1JF_PZLhWBjjBTc3jLR67W3XVvVDT6D8&si=PyGkuT_U9_yg2r0N

Thank you for your comment. I found bosols to be one of the most difficult bitless types to train with and here's a playlist of other low self videos if you're interested. ruclips.net/p/PL1JF_PZLhWBj-dCqrUhwcR0HGgdrLDCul&si=H0ug_euVJUdsqBZM

Thank you so much for your comment. Since the weather is older and very dry you can probably get away with just adding a couple of layers of linseed or needs food oil, until you can get some good conditioner. Conditioners really expensive, but it can be worth it I'm a big fan of skidmore's. You can buy it on Amazon.

Thank you for your comment. I have an older roping horse playlist of videos that might help you. ruclips.net/p/PL1JF_PZLhWBj3PYPg-0laY6tp24N3wra3&si=4XFkk_ktgFVUSZF8

@@lonestarwoman Thank you! I'll check it out.

Thank you for your comment. I ended up having a saddle shop replace the seat. It has a little pad but not much

Here's a playlist of more collection videos. ruclips.net/p/PL1JF_PZLhWBjoG-LTQJX4ELNVY-1oENwV&si=76huAuOqyWBS1lKG

Thank you for your comment. Let us know how it turned out when you get it done. Good luck

Great question. I allow the saddle to complete drying in between each step If it's sunny this can take only an hour. However I usually allow overnight in between oiling and conditioner. Hope that helps

@@lonestarwoman thanks

@@lonestarwoman does the conditioner go on the underside also? Or just the neatsfoot oil?

This just depends on if you have rough out or if you have smooth leather on the underside. And how much you need to condition the leather if it's plenty soft just conditioning on the side and on the top you're good. But if you need to get deep down you can certainly put it on the underside. Remember leather is just like skin and the more conditioned it is the less it will creak and the less likely it is to tear

Thank you so much for your question. There is a lot going on in that question and it would be really difficult to answer everything without seeing a video of this horses behavior. Everything indicates that the horse really needs to go back to basics in ground work, and you probably need to really examine what your body language is saying as well. You need to be able to move the horses five body parts, the head the neck the four quarters and the hindquarters on the ground, and you also need to be able to touch and desensitize the horse with any number of objects including a whip. This is a really good place to start before you ever even get the horse to move forward. Here's my groundwork videos to help ruclips.net/p/PL1JF_PZLhWBjiKj6brS9ntvd_804V-qPU&si=8cN3LD2XLPc-7yVK As always I highly recommend if you can find a instructor or trainer in your area to take some ground work lessons from it would be really beneficial. It's so hard to tell if you're making mistakes without having someone there to help you. I hope this helps, you have to be able to get the horse to move forward on a very short lead for this to work and oftentimes just having the basic crown work taking care of first will help you get in the right position to do this. Please let us know how it's going

@@lonestarwoman Thank you so much for your quick answer. I tried to find some videos on your channel, but you have so many interesting titles so the playlist will be very helpful. Actually there was at least few people that were trying to work with him, including trainers and instructors. And with desensitisation, he is quite desensitised, he doesn't react to loud noises, people, plastic bang, covered eyes. I can even go to the paddock, jump onto his back, and he is not going to care, he'll just stand still. Only the whip. And running. If I run around him, he'll chase me until I go over the fence. But again, thanks for the guidance. Now I know where to start

Sounds like desensitization to that whip is also an issue. Here's a desensitization playlist ruclips.net/p/PL1JF_PZLhWBhWHnXt-RG8CAGY3Wdux3j7&si=MCaG-rbiR79ru4Vl So you might want to work on daily desensitization to a whip, they really should never be aggressive towards you at all. Try a telescoping flag. You can adjust your length. ruclips.net/p/PL1JF_PZLhWBhWHnXt-RG8CAGY3Wdux3j7&si=IKlT-uZuSaXZdWzt If you'd like to send a video that would help.

Thank you for your question. When it comes to flexing the head and neck the objective is to get the horse so soft that you barely have to touch the rain or lead rope to get the horse to flex. So you have to release as soon as you get a complete flex, and you usually do this until you get a very quick response from the horse with very little pressure. But to help you out once you have this established I generally think it's good to go at least five times on each side, and repeat that procedure on the ground and in the saddle. And that will get your horse nice and soft and flexible if you do it everyday

Thank you so much for your comment. Lunging is an art and it requires time and practice. Here's more lunging videos to help you. ruclips.net/p/PL1JF_PZLhWBi5sy0-4oDMureKVzywlKL3&si=cM7obCOY8NZINXRa

That's a good question. If they are really sticky, I aim for closer to the flank, to simulate adding pressure to button number 3. Once you have done this a few times you can move the whip to the shoulder, on the inside. Here's another video of a very green mare starting to move forward. ruclips.net/video/_bWz-pBDg1s/видео.htmlsi=ZKxujE9KSp99P4MR

Thank you for your question. And the answer is..... Depends on the horse. If a horse is a slower "leg on" horse like this one, you have to cue and then release and if the horse slows down, you add leg by squeezing with the top part of the inner calf. Now some horses are very forward and once you are balanced and your hands are soft, they will take very light cues. But those are the types of horses that are well trained and more of an interment level horse. Here's more videos with different types of horses to help you understand.ruclips.net/p/PL1JF_PZLhWBhkaQ0KZvsFM4jXaPm0edwP&si=IUlsZ5JYg8qBRxOx

@@lonestarwoman Thank you for the help!

Honestly the best advice I can give to someone who wants to become a better rider, is to try to learn on different horses if possible. Because they are all different

Thank you for your comment. What this video illustrates is when you have an inexperienced handler, and an inexperienced horse it is very difficult to solve the problem. Because remember the horse doesn't know enough to get into the right position and it is the handlers responsibility to stay behind the driveline and ask the horse to go forward. So the handler is actually pulling the horse into a negative position by not altering their own position. It's a difficult thing to learn and this horse is now excellent at lunging but it did take time. Please check out my other lunging videos for more explanation. ruclips.net/p/PL1JF_PZLhWBi5sy0-4oDMureKVzywlKL3&si=MdkEV8D28yjo1ygd

Great question. Go back to using a lunge line, to get the signals clear. Try the 180 on the fence to help with direction changes. ruclips.net/video/F9q3M45eAzU/видео.htmlsi=kZIxsz-oPsbQikMb

Lance thank you very much for your question. Without seeing a video of the behavior it's very hard to tell you exactly what to do. Is she biting at you with ears full back against her neck, is she biting at you with her ears forward? Do you have snacks or something else in your pocket that she might want? If you feed them lots of snacks without requiring them to do something for the snack this behavior is pretty prevalent. It's also common for younger horses, that are trying to establish their place in the herd. That means that the nipping and biting might be a respect issue. The best thing you can do is to continue on with more and more groundwork and every time she does a nip or a bite back her up and clear her out of your space. And you have to address the problem immediately. You have basically three seconds to react and back her up or yield the hindquarters. With younger horses sometimes it may take a little time to get this taken care of. Please check out my other videos on training for respect and control to help you out. ruclips.net/p/PL1JF_PZLhWBiS44qsw4EKbqcwphyrO1lU&si=w1hSvv3wG_Hwg46W

@@lonestarwoman First and foremost thank you for the quick response. My mare will do it in a more aggressive behavior, she definitely pins her ears back and then tries to bite at times she gets me but it hasn’t been to a point where blood is drawn and I hope we don’t get to that place. When saddling and doing everything else, she’s a gem. She only does this when haltering at times or when lunging. I don’t give her snacks or treats when awarding her when she doesn’t something right or wrong. The snacks only come out once in a blue moon. Like twice a month so I don’t think the treats is an issue, but I do thank you and will be consistent, assertive and calm. She is a good mare, but just tends to bite. Three seconds! I’ll remember that, and I’ll be sure to check out your other videos! Thank you so much!

It sounds like she might be having a respect issue and she might be uncomfortable with things touching her tummy. One thing that I truly found to be amazing with horses that had behavior problems like this, is to also balance out their gut health. Check out GutX as a supplement. It does work wonders.100xequine.com/pages/gut2 In combination with training:) Give us an update

@@lonestarwoman It's awesome that you mentioned the gut area. My mare use to have a bad case of diarrhea for a few months, so I took her to the vet where she had a fecal culture done. For the mean time she got psyllium and some pro/pre biotics, and we ended up putting a water filter on her hose and I kid you not her running stools completely vanished in weeks. Also dewormed her with an ingredient that had praziquantel which was recommended by the vet. She does get GutX and I kid you not it's a life changing for my mare and she'll never be without it. I think she's just being bratty and is a sassy teenager, but I will continue to work with her and I'll give you an update. Thank you so much about caring about your work, and responding! It means the world to me that someone out there cares enough about other people's horses! Much love and respect!